“Let’s Have A Grid” at Louis Vuitton Spring 2013 RTW
Closing the season, as he opened it, Marc Jacobs brings us once again to the world of Sixties minimalism/maximalism this time through checkerboard goggles for Louis Vuitton SS13. The deranged twins he sent down the escalators to the runway reminded me of Diane Arbus and the twins from Kubrick’s The Shining. Perfectly creepy. The perfectly...
“Pure & Light” at Givenchy Spring 2013 RTW
Every now and again, a designer has a palette cleansing show. This season there have been several, in fact every relevant show this season has relied on a good clean collection of desirable clothes. Riccardo Tisci’s SS13 outing for Givenchy was no different. Tisci, Ghesquire and Philo are very much on the same tip this...
“Togetherness, Beauty, Friendship, and a Journey” at Celine Spring 2013 RTW
Quotes from Phoebe Philo: “togetherness, beauty, friendship, and a journey.” That sounds awful warm and fuzzy for a woman who is known for sharp lines and the current women’s power dressing. But hey, she just had a baby, so it’s normal that a betty gets a little soft after pregnancy. Regardless of soft or...
“Lots of Class, but Working Class” at Chanel Spring 2013 RTW
Karl Lagerfeld is the king of consistency. Every Chanel show he has ever done has the same iconic Chanel stamp, always a jacket/dress suit combo, always shift dresses that may be worn by women of any age. The question with Karl and Chanel is always what filter is he going to put his classic shapes...
TEAM HEDI: Slimane’s First Outing for Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013 RTW
The dedication Hedi Slimane left on the benches at the Saint Laurent Paris SS13 show, simply read, “À Pierre.” We are assuming he meant, Pierre Berge, the late YSL’s main man and life partner. Mr. Slimane’s take on YSL was exactly as it should be: sexy and real. A modern take on the women that...
“Freedom” at Christian Dior Spring 2013 RTW
“Freedom” was quoted on Raf’s Show Notes for his era at Dior. Agreed. So did Raf actually make us wanna go shop at Dior again? YEP. Are we obsessed with the glitter eye makeup Pat McGrath did on the models? Uh huh. Do we wanna dress like Acid Trip/Club Kid versions of 50’s Debutantes &...
WWII Club Kids at Junya Watanabe Spring 2013 RTW
Like Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe is an undercover fashion influencer that only the ignorant ignore. His clothes are some of the most covetable items in fashion, and when you see them in the shop each piece is always unbelievably made, hence the gnarly price tags. On the runway, these clothes, paired with his preferred casting,...
“Crushing. The Energy of an Explosion.” at Comme des Garçons Spring 2013 RTW
Rei Kawakubo is in fact the most powerful and influential woman in fashion. From influencing other influencers (Hello Phoebe Phile, Marc Jacobs, Miuccia Prada & Alber Ebaz, all of whom she counts among friends) to her drip down effect on the mass market, she is the ultimate reigning queen of fashion realness. Ms. Kawakubo doesn’t...
“Deconstructed Classicism” at Lanvin Spring 2013 RTW
Alber Ebaz picked up where Miuccia Prada left off with his take on Japanese and the Sixties for his latest Lanvin collection. Mr. Ebaz’s version has a distinctly more french version on these themes with sexy cross dressing Le Smoking tuxes, one piece swim wear shown with mens trousers (TREND! See Balenciaga Look 1), and...
“Invading Nature” With Nicholas Ghesquire at Balenciaga Spring 2013 RTW
Nicholas Ghesquire once again took to the rich history that is Cristobal Balenciaga’s archives for SS13, focusing this time on Balenciaga’s ballet influences from the 1930’s mashed up with other various collections from the late 50’s and through out the 60’s. Other themes popping up repeatedly now: New Age Classicism. Ghesquire’s collection is a palette...
“Rigor Followed By Delicacy”: Prada Spring 2013 RTW
Miuccia is in the same club as Marc Jacobs as far as influencers go. Prada is the only relevant show in Milan, the only show in Italy that really effects fashion’s direction. And Mrs. Prada doesn’t give a crap about what the critics, buyers or editors think. She is an artist creating a collection...
Saint Laurent Paris Fall/ Winter 2012 Campaign by Hedi Slimane
Hedi Slimane’s first campaign for Saint Laurent has hit the books and we are happy to see that Mr. Slimane is sticking to what we knows best: Moody looking gorgeous people in grunge-luxe environment. Love a tattooed long hair fem boy clutching an ankle with a chic pump. Now I am on the edge of...